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乘木游艇畅游印尼岛 Exploring Indonesia's islands on Aman's new floating hotel

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The sight of the Amandira bobbing away on turquoise waters is enough to make even the most committed landlubber want to slip aboard. The 52-metre yacht was launched earlier this year by Aman, the 30-strong hotel group known for immaculate design and formidable prices. It is inspired by the wooden phinisi that for centuries sailed through Indonesia’s tropical archipelagos carrying spices, fruits and other cargo.

亲眼目睹Amandira游艇在湛蓝的大海中披波斩浪,即便是最执着的旱鸭子也忍不住想一试身手。这艘52米长的游艇由阿曼公司(Aman)于今年初正式投入运营,阿曼公司是全球前30强酒店集团,以完美的设计以及令人咋舌的价格著称于世。Amandira的设计灵感来自印尼特有的比尼西木船(Phinisi),这种满载着香料、水果以及其它货物的木船几个世纪以来一直穿梭往来于印尼的各个热带群岛。

The Amandira has been built from local hardwoods by craftsmen in Sulawesi and Surabaya, and tucked away in among the boat’s handcrafted timbers are three spacious double cabins and two smaller cabins with two bunk beds apiece. Up on the vast deck, there are cushions for lounging and a shaded area for when the sun is high. Indoors there is a dining table and a small library. There are 15 crew members — in attire more chic than any the passengers are likely to wear — who are there to prepare barbecues, picnics and freshly pressed juices, provide hot towels and diving or snorkelling gear, and, above all, to navigate the ship safely through the reefs and islands.

Amandira由苏拉威西岛(Sulawesi)与印尼泗水市(Surabaya)本地出产的硬质木料手工打造而成,在手工打造的船体中,建造了三个宽敞双人舱以及两个各配置架子床的单人舱。异常宽大的甲板上专门配备了闲躺专用软垫和避躲烈日的遮阳处。舱内则安放了餐桌以及配备了一座小型图书室。整个游艇共配有15名船员(他们的穿着比任何游客都要时髦),他们竭诚为宾客准备烤肉、野餐与鲜榨果汁,提供热毛巾及潜水潜泳设备。最重要的是,他们负责操控游艇,使其安全穿梭于各个暗礁与岛屿间。

It’s not just that the boat itself is beautiful — it is where it sails and the adventures it offers that make it so beguiling. From April to September, when the seas and winds are at their calmest, the Amandira roams between the tiny island of Moyo and the Komodo National Park; from October to March, it explores the slightly wilder area to the north around the Raja Ampat archipe-lago. These seas are home to some of the richest and most diverse marine life in the world — about a third of the world’s aquatic species and more than 450 species of reef coral (compare that with the Caribbean, which boasts about 60).

并非只有游艇的模样美不胜收——它航行的海域以及提供的奇妙经历最让游客心驰神往。每年四月至九月,是大海最为风平浪静的安澜时刻,Amandira在袖珍小岛莫约(Moyo)与科莫多国家公园(Komodo National Park)之间游弋;从十月至次年三月,它则前往北部拉贾安帕群岛)(Raja Ampat archipe-lago)的宽阔海域“寻芳探幽”。这儿是全世界海洋生物资源最为丰富、也是种类最为多样化的海域——是全球约三分之一的海洋物种以及450多种珊瑚(号称拥有60种珊瑚的加勒比海完全不可同日而语)的栖息地。

These are the waters that drew the great 19th-century naturalist Alfred Russel Wallace, he of the Wallace Line, marking the point where Asian flora and fauna give way to Australasian species. The Amandira plies its way through a transitional zone known as Wallacea, where many of these species overlap. As far back as 1956, our more contemporary great naturalist David Attenborough also came here, to film his BBC documentary series Zoo Quest. Put simply, there are sights above and below the water that you won’t see anywhere else.

这片海域吸引了19世纪伟大的博物学家阿尔弗雷德丠莱士(Alfred Russel Wallace),作为华莱士线(Wallace Line)的提出者,他划出了从东洋物种到澳洲物种(Australasian species)过渡的分界线。Amandira经常穿梭于这块被称为Wallacea的物种过渡区域,来自东洋界与澳洲界的很多物种在此出现了交叠现象。早在1956年,当代著名博物学家大卫縠箂ⅶ(David Attenborough)也亲临此地拍摄BBC记录片《动物探秘》系列(Zoo Quest)。一言以蔽之,诸位在此处看到的水上还是水下美景,可谓惊绝于世。

Earlier this month I spent five days aboard, sailing these magical seas and spotting wonderful creatures. Just lounging on the deck, we spent an hour marvelling at the antics of what seemed like a hundred dolphins following the boat. We had glimpses of the wobbegong shark and, up in the sky, we’d see sea eagles soaring, searching for prey.

不久前,我有幸乘此游艇潇洒了五天,穿行于这片美不胜收的海域,探秘奇妙生灵。休闲躺卧于甲板时,我们欣赏一路尾随游艇的100多头海豚所做的种种古怪滑稽动作长达1个小时;还不时看见出没的斑纹须鲨以及天空中翱翔的海雕,它们在四处搜寻猎物目标。

On our first evening aboard we landed at the small island of Satonda and took the small path to see Lake Motitoi, a seawater crater lake lined with stromatolites (a rare form of algal reef). As we left, the darkening sky began to fill with flying foxes leaving the island to find fruit to eat further afield.

登上游艇后第一个晚上,我们登上一座名叫Satonda的小岛,并沿着小路前往Motitoi湖,这个灌满海水的火山湖叠层石(一种稀有的藻礁)密布。我们返回时,只见渐趋昏暗的天空中是黑压压一片去远处岛屿觅食的果蝠。

On the island of Rinca, we trekked to see the famous Komodo dragon. Grey and seemingly mostly half-asleep, they can grow up to three metres long — but it isn’t until they flick out their extraordinarily mobile tongues in search of the scent of blood that they begin to resemble the terrifying creatures of myth. They are easy to see, lounging around the kitchen huts at the base of the island, yet our guide, armed merely with a forked stick, was sufficiently nervous to make sure that we kept well away. Why they can only be found on four islands — Komodo, Rinca, Gili Motang and Flores — nobody quite knows.

在Rinca岛上,我们经过艰苦跋涉,前去观赏著名的科莫多巨蜴。成年科莫多巨蜴呈现灰色,体型长达3米,多数时间一副昏昏欲睡的样子——但它们不经意伸出异常灵巧的长舌探寻血腥味时,才酷似传说中毛骨悚然的可怕动物。找到它们轻而易举,因为它们就在小岛底处的简易厨房四周闲转;然而只带了根叉棍的导游却如临大敌,要求我们必须呆在远离它们的安全区域。为何科莫多巨蜴只生活在这四个岛屿(Komodo、Rinca、Gili Motang和Flores),原因至今仍不得而知。

Yet it was under water that I found by far the more magical world. I don’t dive, and neither did anybody else in our party. We could have learnt onboard, under the instruction of Benoit Martin-Laval, the cruise manager, but we didn’t need to. Instead, we spent long and happy hours snorkelling, marvelling at the coral reefs, eyeballing fish of strange and myriad hues. One morning, Benoit found us a site where vast manta rays tend to gather and we snorkelled in and out among them as if we, too, had become creatures of the sea. We kayaked and paddle-boarded, had picnics on tiny islands fringed with pink-tinged sand and, on our last evening, we ate barbecued lobster on another deserted island surrounded by trees festooned with lanterns.

然而,我觉得水下世界却是迄今为止最为神奇的地方。我并没有选择潜水,旅游团队中也无人尝试。大伙完全可以在游船上接受经理伯努瓦氠丁-拉瓦尔(Benoit Martin-Laval)的传授,但我们没这个需求。相反,我们借助通气管在水下潜泳了很长时间,兴致勃勃欣赏神奇美丽的珊瑚礁以及五颜六色、奇形怪状的海鱼。其中一个早上,伯努瓦给我们找到一处绝佳的赏鱼处——这是巨型蝠鲼汇聚的地方,我们带着呼吸管出没于它们中间,仿佛自己也变成了海洋生灵。我们划着独木舟、玩着冲浪板,在粉红色沙滩的袖珍小岛上野餐。整个旅程的最后一个晚上,我们在一座荒岛上享用烤龙虾,环绕小岛的绿树上挂满了灯笼。

The joy of the Amandira is that you can go where you will, winds and seas permitting. It is designed to be taken over in its entirety so, unlike most of the other boats plying the same seas, you never share with strangers. And though that makes it expensive, if you can make up a group of 10 (the maximum the boat takes) and divide the cost, it doesn’t seem quite so bad. The package usually quoted is for five days but you can hire it for as long as you like.

乘坐Amandira的最大乐趣是:风浪不大的时候,可以随心所欲地游玩。Amandira如此设计,最适宜整船包租,因此与往来于同一片海域的其它游船不一样的是,船上并没有互不相识的游客。尽管整船包租价格不菲,但如果能凑够10位游客(最大的载客量),并且分摊费用,那么还是十分划算。整个旅游套餐的常规行程是5天,但游客也可以随心所欲租用。

What makes a perfect package is to do as I did: fly to Singapore, arriving early in the morning and connecting straight to Bali and thence to the Amanusa hotel, half an hour from the airport. I dined (deliciously) there and flew early the next morning to the island of Sumbawa.

理想的旅游套餐就是参照本人的做法:乘飞机于凌晨时分抵达新加坡,从那儿再直飞印尼的巴厘岛(Bali),而后入住距机场半个小时车程的阿曼努沙酒店(Amanusa hotel)。在那儿吃完美味可口的早餐后,再搭乘早班飞机前往松巴哇岛(Sumbawa)。

From there, it is a short boat trip to the small island of Moyo and to Amanwana, the Aman group’s tented camp, where there are hills to hike up, golden orioles in the trees, cool, green pools by a waterfall to swim and dive in and, always, skies of a Tiepolo blue and seas that range from palest turquoise to deep dark indigo. The Amandira then picks you up from Moyo and off you sail for five days of bliss.

从松巴哇岛乘船前往Moyo小岛以及阿曼集团的帐篷营地阿曼瓦那(Amanwana),很快就能抵达。在Moyo岛上,游客可以爬山、欣赏密林中的金黄鹂,在瀑布旁的碧池中畅游与潜水;俯仰之间,不是欣赏湛蓝色的天空(颜色酷似意大利画家提埃波罗(Tiepolo)笔下的作品),就是依次从苍绿色到靛蓝色的碧波大海。Amandira然后把诸位从Moyo岛接上游船,开始为期五天的梦幻之旅。

Details

详情介绍

Lucia van der Post was a guest of Cazenove + Loyd (cazloyd.com) and Singapore Airlines (singaporeair.com). An eight-night trip with Cazenove + Loyd, staying one night at the Amanusa in Bali, two at Amanwana and five aboard the Amandira, costs from 5,200 per person (based on a group of 10 people). Return flights from London would add about 600

露西娅娠斯特是Cazenove + Loyd旅行社(网址:cazloyd.com)以及新加坡航空公司(Singapore Airlines,网址:singaporeair.com)的客人。Cazenove + Loyd旅行社行程(历时八个晚上)的最低报价是5200英镑/人(前提是凑够10人旅游团队),其中在巴厘岛的安曼努沙酒店住一晚,在阿曼瓦那住两晚,在Amandira游艇上住5个晚上。伦敦始发的返程机票,每位游客需另加600英镑。

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